There are many myths and facts about the 1911 platform. Take time to do your research. I hope some of you find some of my points useful when purchasing your …
1911s are really not ideal for defence. Get something cheap in 9mm, or if
you just HAVE to have a .45 there are a few options. Bottom line, why
would you spend so much on a handgun which its intended purpose is to
defend you, get seized by the cops and thrown in an evidence locker and
mauled by lab techs. For a nightstand gun a Canik TP9 or other full sized
duty style handgun is hard to beat. 2×17+1 9mm will be enough for a small
army and it is cheap enough where if the thing gets taken for a few months,
you won’t have to use a hi-point. 1911s for CC are just plain foolish.
I want my 1911s to be as reliable as possible. Pistols are not long-range
weapons, so I’d rather have loose tolerances that can power through bad
conditions than a high-tier racing gun. I love my Springfield.
Great video. In my humble experience, John M. Browning designed and made
the pistol the way he did for a reason. The classic 1911 and 1911A1 are
fine the way they are.
My Metro Arms “American Classic II” is as TIGHT as a Banjo String!!
I paid $420.00 Made in the Philippines…
500 Rnds ZERO Malfunctions and has all the bells & whistles.
no offence many folks have no idea what makes a 1911 accurate and I see
comments like “my Asian made 1911 is better than my colt”… Loose slides
dont effect accuracy too much
I do wheelguns ONLY by now. if I ever get back into pistols… can only be
a 1911 for me. totally agree on light triggers. have zero control with
them. just goes bang TOO easy.
For concealed carry, you might consider having a GI style grip safety
instead of beavertail. It prints less and will not poke through the ribs
while sitting. CCW is light use so it won’t bother much. For home defense
or target shooting, beavertailed 1911 with surefire is a good option.
Just too add to your thoughts many 1911’s tend to have issues feeding HP or
defensive ammunition. It’s not just common to the GI spec or lower cost
1911s. This is due to the way the round is fed into the chamber when it
stripped from the magazine.There is a 3 point jump involved and the trouble
with feeding can come from anyone of these areas. 1st it has to jump from
the mag ramp., A week magazine spring, or out of spec lips or mag
ramp(follower) can cause a heavier SD round bottom out and nose dive into
the feed ramp. The 2nd is the feed ramp in the frame, many are rough or the
angle is not steep enough and require a good polishing. When the nose of
the round hits the ramp it can bump and go strait up missing the barrel
throat causing a stove pipe if out of spec or unpolished.
The 3rd step is the the the barrel throat which is the chamfered edge
around the barrel. Earlier 1911 barrels were throated very narrow to feed
only hard ball ammunition now most modern 1911 manufactures(even the budget
one) have a wider barrel throat but due to modern assembly line
manufacturing no newly mass produced firearm comes off the line perfect and
this shows in 1911’s including the 1k Kimbers or HIgh end Springfield’s.
The Barrel may required to be throated a bit more and polished. These 2
steps along with using a good higher end magazine can and will ensure the
proper feeding of any ammunition type in a 1911.
There is 1 more type of feeding issue that would add the extractor into
play which would case the dreaded 3 point bind. This is more common then
most think as the extractor plays a high role in the 1911 platform as well
as many other modern firearms.
JHB brought us the 1911 however in his own words he perfected that design
when he later produced the BHP which takes all of the above factors out of
play creating a more reliable side arm.
I like my new 1911’s like my women…tight. Then over some time as you
break them in, they seem to get a little better with a good break in. lol
all kidding aside, I have a Kimber that I couldn’t trust my life with as of
right now. Can’t really afford to be paying on average $25 a box for 50
rounds of .45 to be able to put a lot down range. I have more than 700
rounds but less than 1000 thru it and it still isn’t 100% reliable. That is
why this pistol usually just sits in the safe at this time. I’m sure once I
get over the 1,000 round mark that it’ll run much better, hopefully. I
still stick to my Glock & M&P for reliability. I wish I could rely on the
Kimber because the trigger out the box on mine is amazing. $1400 pistol and
cannot even trust it…that I why I learned to buy what works…from my
experience anyways. I use the 1911 as a range gun when I can afford the
ammo.
Yeah there are allot of dumbasses in the world, so what? Dont touch the
trigger until the muzzle is indexed on target and you intend to fire. Dont
disengage the manual safety until you have cleared the holster and are
coming up on target. Always maintain proper muzzle orientation. Do that and
you will never have a negligent or accidental discharge no matter the
trigger weight. A trigger pull weight that is lighter than the weight of
the firearm aids in accuracy.
I have been carrying a 1911 officers compact RIA for the past 4 years,
Never had one issue with mine. As far as hollow points even though I have
never had any issue. I carry ball ammo in mine why? I want penetration. Im
not concerned about the too much penetration issue.
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1911s are really not ideal for defence. Get something cheap in 9mm, or if
you just HAVE to have a .45 there are a few options. Bottom line, why
would you spend so much on a handgun which its intended purpose is to
defend you, get seized by the cops and thrown in an evidence locker and
mauled by lab techs. For a nightstand gun a Canik TP9 or other full sized
duty style handgun is hard to beat. 2×17+1 9mm will be enough for a small
army and it is cheap enough where if the thing gets taken for a few months,
you won’t have to use a hi-point. 1911s for CC are just plain foolish.
I want my 1911s to be as reliable as possible. Pistols are not long-range
weapons, so I’d rather have loose tolerances that can power through bad
conditions than a high-tier racing gun. I love my Springfield.
Great video. In my humble experience, John M. Browning designed and made
the pistol the way he did for a reason. The classic 1911 and 1911A1 are
fine the way they are.
My Metro Arms “American Classic II” is as TIGHT as a Banjo String!!
I paid $420.00 Made in the Philippines…
500 Rnds ZERO Malfunctions and has all the bells & whistles.
Can you break a semi in by manually racking the slide and releasing it. I’m
very stingy with ammo because a.) Its expensive b.) Its hard to find.
Literally every gun this guy has on his channel is at least 10 years old.
Nice job explaining 1911 features.
I agree in regards to the RIA. Great pistol at a good price.
Best grips I’ve ever seen for a 1911…
Great vid and tips. Thanks.
no offence many folks have no idea what makes a 1911 accurate and I see
comments like “my Asian made 1911 is better than my colt”… Loose slides
dont effect accuracy too much
Do you still have the Remington? I’ve got the R1 Enhanced and it’s great.
I do wheelguns ONLY by now. if I ever get back into pistols… can only be
a 1911 for me. totally agree on light triggers. have zero control with
them. just goes bang TOO easy.
Nice . I have RIA’s they have been great.
lol, would that be Tex “I just fucking shot myself” grebner?.
Inb4 texgrebbner
For concealed carry, you might consider having a GI style grip safety
instead of beavertail. It prints less and will not poke through the ribs
while sitting. CCW is light use so it won’t bother much. For home defense
or target shooting, beavertailed 1911 with surefire is a good option.
Good points. For home defense,reliability is everything.Pinpoint accuracy
is not.
My 1911 shoots anything I put through it.
Just too add to your thoughts many 1911’s tend to have issues feeding HP or
defensive ammunition. It’s not just common to the GI spec or lower cost
1911s. This is due to the way the round is fed into the chamber when it
stripped from the magazine.There is a 3 point jump involved and the trouble
with feeding can come from anyone of these areas. 1st it has to jump from
the mag ramp., A week magazine spring, or out of spec lips or mag
ramp(follower) can cause a heavier SD round bottom out and nose dive into
the feed ramp. The 2nd is the feed ramp in the frame, many are rough or the
angle is not steep enough and require a good polishing. When the nose of
the round hits the ramp it can bump and go strait up missing the barrel
throat causing a stove pipe if out of spec or unpolished.
The 3rd step is the the the barrel throat which is the chamfered edge
around the barrel. Earlier 1911 barrels were throated very narrow to feed
only hard ball ammunition now most modern 1911 manufactures(even the budget
one) have a wider barrel throat but due to modern assembly line
manufacturing no newly mass produced firearm comes off the line perfect and
this shows in 1911’s including the 1k Kimbers or HIgh end Springfield’s.
The Barrel may required to be throated a bit more and polished. These 2
steps along with using a good higher end magazine can and will ensure the
proper feeding of any ammunition type in a 1911.
There is 1 more type of feeding issue that would add the extractor into
play which would case the dreaded 3 point bind. This is more common then
most think as the extractor plays a high role in the 1911 platform as well
as many other modern firearms.
JHB brought us the 1911 however in his own words he perfected that design
when he later produced the BHP which takes all of the above factors out of
play creating a more reliable side arm.
I finally got the jig and end mills for my 80% frame. Still need the rest
of the parts though.
Just as long as it can blow and ISIS Terrorist’s fucking head off. That’s
all I care about. 🙂
I like my new 1911’s like my women…tight. Then over some time as you
break them in, they seem to get a little better with a good break in. lol
all kidding aside, I have a Kimber that I couldn’t trust my life with as of
right now. Can’t really afford to be paying on average $25 a box for 50
rounds of .45 to be able to put a lot down range. I have more than 700
rounds but less than 1000 thru it and it still isn’t 100% reliable. That is
why this pistol usually just sits in the safe at this time. I’m sure once I
get over the 1,000 round mark that it’ll run much better, hopefully. I
still stick to my Glock & M&P for reliability. I wish I could rely on the
Kimber because the trigger out the box on mine is amazing. $1400 pistol and
cannot even trust it…that I why I learned to buy what works…from my
experience anyways. I use the 1911 as a range gun when I can afford the
ammo.
my rock island handles hollowpoints all day long
Yeah there are allot of dumbasses in the world, so what? Dont touch the
trigger until the muzzle is indexed on target and you intend to fire. Dont
disengage the manual safety until you have cleared the holster and are
coming up on target. Always maintain proper muzzle orientation. Do that and
you will never have a negligent or accidental discharge no matter the
trigger weight. A trigger pull weight that is lighter than the weight of
the firearm aids in accuracy.
I have been carrying a 1911 officers compact RIA for the past 4 years,
Never had one issue with mine. As far as hollow points even though I have
never had any issue. I carry ball ammo in mine why? I want penetration. Im
not concerned about the too much penetration issue.
Great Video as always
Semper Fi
You get use to an Ultra Light Trigger and that will mess you up on EVERY
OTHER handgun you TRY to fire!!
wish the mags are better .like holding more rounds that is but hell yeah
love 1911.